История украшений для причесок — Hair accessories

23 мая 2012 | Автор: | комментариев 27 »
украшений для причесок

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Использование накладных волос не было нововведением в Англии 14-ого века.

Свободно ниспадающие, порою до земли, длинные косы в 12-ом веке порою требовали искусного добавления дополнительных волос и, судя по церковным установлениям Флоренции начала 14-ого века, вместо волос иногда использовались косы из льна, шерсти, хлопка или шелка.

Также в слоях 14-ого и начала 15-ого века в Лондоне были обнаружены образцы проволочных ободков, которые предположительно использовались в составе головного убора. Они изготовлены из тянутой проволоки, обычно из медного сплава (copper-alloy), но иногда – из железа. Концы ободков иногда расплющивались молотком и в них пробивалось небольшое отверстие ; другие, кажется, сгибались либо скручивались, чтобы сформировать окончания . По крайней мере на 11 образцах вокруг проволоки был намотан некрученый шелк, все они происходят из слоя, датированного концом 14-ого века, где были исключительно благоприятные условия для сохранения, как нигде более в городе. На это проволочное основание навивались более тонкие и гибкие, обвитые шелком проволоки. Один железный ободок, покрытый шелком, украшают две перекрещивающихся покрытых шелком проволоки, обвитых вокруг него так, чтобы сформировались узлы в виде цифры «8» 5 . Эти узлы в местах сгибов закреплены на месте шелковой нитью. На другом покрытом шелком проволочном ободке, сделанном из медного сплава (copperalloy), а не из железа, сохранились следы шелкового головного покрывала (veil), пришитого к ободку. Это головное покрывало имеет полотняное переплетение и соткано из нитей Z-крутки6 , его структура говорит о том, что оно должно было быть полупрозрачным. Существуют фрагменты семи других шелковых головных покрывал этого типа из археологических слоев Лондона, датированных концом 14-ого века, но ни одно из них не указывает на связь с проволочным ободком (Crowfoot et al. forthcoming).

украшений для причесок

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Использованию в 14-ом и 15-ом веках проволоки, покрытой шелком, уделено мало внимания. Подобная проволока в наши дни порою называется “millinery wire” 7 (можно перевести как «галантерейная» или даже «шляпная» проволока) и ее связь с головными уборами, следовательно, имеет долгую историю. Возможно, что ремесло женщин мастериц, называвшихся в Париже в 13-ом веке chapeliers de fleurs (изготовители венков из цветов), которые упоминаются в Livre des Mtiers (Книге ремесел) включало в себя создание головных уборов из проволоки. Завещанный в 1328 г. Роджером Стерром (Roger Sterre) его дочери Матильде венок (garland) из жемчуга с шелковыми лентами (streamers) может относиться к продукции этого типа, однако пока не осуществлено документальное исследование по этому вопросу, это большей частью остается предположением. Покрытая шелком проволока может быть скручена в мириады форм, для украшения предметов и светского, и церковного обихода, и вообще существуют сохранившиеся артефакты последнего типа. Они включают в себя ряд реликвариев 14-ого и 15-ого веков, украшенных разноцветными цветами из покрытой шелком проволоки, зачастую усаженными нанизанными на них жемчужинами и бусинами, например – реликвия 15-ого века, «корона св. Кунигунды», хранящаяся в Бамбергском соборе, в Западной Германии, и ритуальных подушек, называемых «райские сады» («paradise gardens»), для монахинь, приносящих свои обеты, В 16-ом веке украшения из похожей проволоки иногда использовались для обложек книг. Некоторые мотивы выкладывались из проволоки, которая скручивалась в спирали, такой тип проволоки в 16-ом веке назывался purl , и это помогает объяснить небольшие фрагменты из скрученной проволоки среди фрагментов проволоки, найденных в Лондоне.

украшений для причесок

украшений для причесок

Другой тип украшений для волос, среди найденных в Лондоне – это U-образная булавка с двумя концами, украшенная витой проволокой, которая была найдена в Finsbury Circus . Стиль декора из витой проволоки, который ассоциируется также с фибулами (brooches),

кольцом (finger ring), , и косметическими инструментами (cosmetic tools) , позволяет предположить, что эта булавка может быть датирована14-ым веком.

Вероятно, она использовалась для удержания на месте женских льняных головных уборов, украшение имитирует эффект «складчатой» кромки головного убора (рюши), как это изображено на надгробии королевы Эуфимии Датской.

Другие образцы витой проволоки из слоев 14-ого и 15-ого веков могут относиться к головным уборам, но этого нельзя утверждать уверенно, поскольку находки фрагментарны и, как отмечалось выше, проволока различной толщины использовалась для украшения различных типов изделий. Один предмет заслуживает упоминания здесь, хотя он, кажется, не являлся украшением для прически. Это полоса из тонкой проволоки, скрученной в пятилистники (cinquefoils) . Пятилистники образуют пары, которые сформированы скручиванием двух отрезков очень гибкой прямой проволоки.

Некоторые пары пятилистников скручены из одного отрезка проволоки, а иногда использовались оба. Законченный элемент, вероятно, мог быть нашит на ткань в качестве украшения, в некоторой степени подобно тесьме или шнуру.

Еесли же вы решите сделать уникальные и эксклюзивные подарки по фотографиям, вы очень просто сможете найти в сети огромное количество вариантов. Это позволит вам поэкспериментировать, подобрав самый оптимальный вариант. Таким образом, у вам получится интересный и неповторимый подарок.

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